"In the current era, the “smash burger” has become a thing, accomplished by doing what we were once told never to do: Press the spatula down on top of the patty until all the juices have been expelled, resulting in a thin dark patty that produces a slight crunch when bitten into. I dutifully tried three of the seven burgers offered, including one that featured blue cheese and bacon, mainly because the place received a glowing review in the New Yorker, in which the Maillard reaction was prominently mentioned. I found the patties inconsistently smashed, with some of the sides deeply browned, others gray and soppy. Nevertheless, the double-patty “classic smashed” ($12) on a puffy potato roll with an orange sauce like thousand-island dressing, proved to be tasty if not truly delicious. The wobbly brown fries outclassed the burger and were the best I tried among all four burger joints; but the “smashed potatoes,” made with miniature skin-on spuds, were disappointingly bland. Alcoholic beverages may eventually be available, giving “Smashed” a new meaning." - Robert Sietsema
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