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"In Bernal Heights, this pandemic-born spinoff from Simon and Eric Cheung’s Hing Lung Company might be the neighborhood’s most dynamic opening in years, with a menu that reflects the family’s Hong Kong roots and Northern California produce: decadent duck, well-sourced rice, and espresso soft serve from grass-fed cows. Order the duck — there are three options — with the Cantonese version (I prefer it deboned) as proper as any in the city and a steal at $38; add jasmine rice and crispy, firm garlic greens for $8, and drag the crackling bird through plenty of plum vinaigrette and au jus for sweet-savory dipping. The sticky rice is a chewy brick packed with sausage (both pork and duck liver), dried shrimp, sugar-cured pork belly, and shiitakes; fans of lo mai gai will appreciate this larger-than-life version, and the ramekins of salted peanuts push the decadence up a notch. The jian dui is a toasty, balanced sleeper hit, and if dining in, don’t skip the soft serve. Inside, it’s all black with little pipes exposed, big birds hanging in the back while flames leap from the range; service is attentive without being overbearing or stuffy, and walking in works here." - Paolo Bicchieri