"If I’m heading to the beach, I’ll often divert to Leimert Park’s Wah Gwaan Jamaican Kitchen for picnic fare to go: the restaurant, which celebrated its two-year anniversary in April, offers a fantastic whole fish tray that can be ordered lightly fried, escovitch-style (doused with vinegar and peppers), or in a brown stew that combines the tang of escovitch with a rich, pimento-spiked browning sauce—one tray can easily feed three or more. I pair the fish with sides like earthen rice and peas, stewed cabbage, and caramelized sweet plantains, and I never miss a few golden patties or the barbecue jerk chicken, which is smoked in a roaring-hot drum in the parking lot behind the restaurant." - Eater Staff