"When Zavaleta started her business in 2016, her son Delfino Rodríguez had the idea to split the word 'barbacoa' and combine it with 'kush,' the name of an indica strain of marijuana. 'For weed smokers, kush stands for quality,' says Rodríguez, who hoped the niche branding of Barba Kush would help get younger people interested in barbacoa. It worked — within three years of opening, Barba Kush had a brick-and-mortar in the quickly gentrifying Eastside neighborhood of Boyle Heights. The pandemic forced its closure a year later, but today you can still find Zavaleta, in her Baldwin Park backyard pop-up, serving mole de panza and tacos and quesadillas de barbacoa to a mixed crowd of hipsters, Latinos, and homesick Pueblans." - Bill Esparza