"The Mario Lanza at Lioni Italian Heroes The imprecation to never eat cold cuts for dinner goes out the window with this deliciously satisfying sandwich at Lioni Italian Heroes, a place that styles itself the King of Mozzarella. Especially when the cold cut is mortadella, the most venerable of sliced meats, wearing its little globs of mozzarella like James Beard Awards. And if you remember who Mario Lanza was, extra points for devouring this one ($17)." - Robert Sietsema