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"A compact, timeless-feeling room with charming details (notably a suspended coatrack) that evokes the sense of a place that ‘has been there for 100 years’. The cooking is celebrated for its clarity and restraint: beautifully cut sea trout, a brilliant vichyssoise with crab, prawns served on gem lettuce, and a salad of haricot and green beans with anchovy are all singled out for excellence. Service is relaxed and helpful and presentation is seductive without fuss, resulting in a quietly wonderful, old‑school dining experience that delights critics who favour classic technique and charm." - George Reynolds