"Ètra in Melrose Hill is one of the tougher tables to snag right now and for good reason, the vibe is electric while the cooking is approachable and shareable. A recent meal included plates of rigatoni Gricia and silky strands of bavette Nerano dotted with poached mussels, along with a well-cooked pork ribeye served with fennel salad. Of all the dishes that graced the table, it was the one piled high with bitter chicories with plenty of anchovy, black pepper, and cured yolk that left the strongest impression. Salads can often be an afterthought on a restaurant’s menu but chef Evan Algorri approaches roughage with panache and flavor, unleashing an avalanche of umami with every bite." - Eater Staff
