"I found Ètra in Melrose Hill to be one of the tougher tables to snag right now, and for good reason: the vibe is electric while the cooking is approachable and meant to be shared. A recent meal included rigatoni Gricia and silky strands of bavette Nerano dotted with poached mussels, along with a well-cooked pork ribeye served with fennel salad, but the dish that left the strongest impression was a plate piled high with bitter chicories dressed with plenty of anchovy, black pepper, and cured yolk — chef Evan Algorri approaches salads with panache, unleashing an avalanche of umami with every bite." - Eater Staff