An Up-and-Coming Kansas City Barbecue Business Has Taken Over the Kitchen at Little Beast Brewing | Eater Portland

"What began as a takeout-and-delivery side project in February 2021 has grown into Lawless Barbecue, Kevin Koch’s effort to recreate the Kansas City barbecue he missed after moving to Portland about 13 years ago. I can see the Kansas City influence everywhere: spare ribs, barbecue beans, pulled pork, and an emphasis on lots of sauce. Koch spent years perfecting slow-smoked brisket, pork ribs, and pulled pork (and sides like baked beans, coleslaw, and potato salad) while working other restaurant jobs, and that care shows — the opening menu features delicate, slow‑smoked brisket and crispy burnt ends tossed in a slightly sweet sauce, juicy pulled pork available with Kansas City sweet or Carolina Gold sauces or as a sandwich topped with slaw, and pork ribs left intact at the cartilage-filled end for a meatier bite. He treats the sides as seriously as the meat: smoky, slightly sweet baked beans; bright, crisp vinegar slaw; creamy potato salad and mac and cheese; house-made pickles brined with Little Beast’s IPA; and banana pudding topped with mini Nilla wafers and pecans. Named for his wife’s maiden name, Lawless started as delivery-only during the pandemic and has since found a permanent home serving nachos, barbecue, and banana pudding out of SE Division’s Little Beast Brewing, with dinner service daily and weekend lunch service." - Alex Frane