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"Inside a convenience-store counter at J & T Market on NE Glisan, I watched Adrian Flores ladle thick consomme—red oil shimmering at the top—pull tender strands of meat from a stockpot and tuck them into fresh-made tortillas. The little counter, adjacent to the cash register, draws nurses and locals throughout the day for breakfast burritos, tacos served with little plastic bags of escabeche, and takeout containers piled with chilaquiles; it has quietly built a cult following for Michoacán specialties like chavindeca, morisqueta, and the town’s pride, carnitas. One menu standout is birria de chivo, served either in a large bowl of soup or as tacos with a cup of consomme for drinking and dipping, and demand grew from a weekend-only offering to nearly daily service as the place sold out fast. Flores works long hours (5 a.m. to 10 p.m.), has brought family into the kitchen (his nephew apprenticing and his sister Ana making tortillas), expanded the menu after a renovation to include pozole, tamales, and ceviches, and prides himself on his carnitas paired with his chile de árbol salsa; he’s already planning more additions and even a small bar." - Brooke Jackson-Glidden