"Back in the 2000s, Younghwan Kim, the owner of the barbecue restaurant Hahm Ji Bach, put Queens’s Koreatown on the map for thick, sizzling slabs of samgyupsal (pork belly) grilled at the table. The dish came with all the fixings for wraps: lettuce, ssamjang (a spicy, savory sauce of chile and soybean pastes), garlic, and a magnificent array of at least 10 banchan." - Caroline Shin