
105

"Now entering its thirteenth year, this perennially packed corner brasserie is a go-to place to impress friends in town, known for attentive service and solid French fare. The double-patty burger “Américain,” spiked with toothpicks flying French and U.S. flags, remains one of D.C.’s best and riffs on a Big Mac with a special sauce on an airy sesame bun, and servers will gladly split the entrée so each person gets a large heap of fancy, McDonald’s-style pommes frites. A gooey Gruyere omelet, available any time of day, spotlights Saunder’s Farm eggs from Maryland, while dramatic seafood towers are a splurge but the same raw bar also turns out a great cooked shrimp salad with avocado. Inside, the patinated ceiling is made to resemble ash remnants from Parisian chain smokers, and vintage Tour de France bikes and jerseys frame the wooden bar; lately the interior feels more full since the pandemic-era streatery out front was disassembled. During peak hours, awkwardly placed bathrooms near food-runner traffic can create a backup, though walls of racy French magazine ads help pass the time in line. The dramatic display of loaves made fresh daily at Starr’s Union Market bakery is the star of the room, and it’s worth asking for seconds of the bread baskets, as slices also hold up well in to-go boxes." - Tierney Plumb