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"Somewhere in the last three years, this Balboa Street pizza-and-bagel hotspot became San Francisco’s most popular restaurant—judging by the ongoing attention and lines down the block. In the morning the menu shrinks to Grand Coffee and bagels; made in-house, these rip-and-dip baddies go for $3 a pop in varieties including sea salt and cinnamon raisin. By night at the Laundromat I join mustachioed, camo hat–wearing financial analysts and tooth gem–adorned aspiring DJs for the pizza: get the $2 ramekin of hot honey with the pepperoni, and also get the broccoli pie, a parade of broccoli rabe and Calabrian chile with sinus-smacking fennel and big zags of orange sauce; one must remember the Brussels, where a heavy helping of goat cheese and a sweet apple cider reduction shoves the crispy standard into 2025, then beyond. Scene-wise, this is the sceney-est of scenes: fog rolls through the sidewalk where impatient customers throng—a proper madding crowd—but inside the bar and a smattering of tables make the wait worth it, with huge paintings, handsome wood, and a thrumming tenor of activity from start to finish. I’d honestly recommend arriving right when the restaurant opens at 5 p.m.; for a 6:30 p.m. meal I got there at 5:30 and put my name down, and for a three-top that did the trick—there are no reservations. Eating outside is also a great time. Wear layers." - Paolo Bicchieri