"Pizza-grade mozzarella is a thing unto itself, nothing like the scintillatingly fresh cheese one might use to make a caprese salad. And at most pizzerias — where the plain cheese slice is the most fundamental product — either the crust, tomato sauce, or cheese is allowed to dominate. At Gio’s, a cave of a pizza parlor in Mott Haven, the cheese dominates, spread across the pie so there’s a fun mix of ingredients in every bite." - Robert Sietsema
