

7
"I visited Reyna, an import from Toronto near Union Square, and found a hulking, glitzy space that specializes in food of the Mediterranean rim: a boxcar-like room up a ramp with an arched shelved bar, pink ostrich-feather lampshades, and spindly trees casting dramatic shadows. Expensive appetizers dominate the menu — miniature Turkish manti (5 for $19) in spiced yogurt, one-bite lamb "baklava" bonbons with bright yellow gravy ($8 each), and a smart take on French fries (potato sticks in a brown-paper cone, $12) where the Spanish version is deliciously heaped with chorizo and cheese. Lebanese tacos (one falafel, one chicken) were good, and showy cocktails like the fruity King Arthur’s concubine ($19) arrive with a glittering spoon of tapioca pearls and a sprig of tarragon. A $72 paella arrived lavishly furnished with clams, mussels, squid, baby octopus, shrimp, and chicken but suffered a bitter aftertaste that lemon couldn't fix." - Robert Sietsema