Hellbender

The Best New Restaurants in Queens, March 2025

"This sibling to Rolo’s has transitioned from a cocktail bar with food to a sit-down restaurant serving excellent modern Mexican American fare from chef Yara Herrera, an alum of Spago, Momofuku Ko, and Xilonen. The aguachile is served with a bright vermilion broth spiced with habanada peppers. The pork ribs al pastor are tender; the skin on the achiote-marinated branzino is blackened and crusty; and the roasted beets and ayocote beans salad features watercress shoots as a grassy complement. And if you spot something that looks like chicken tenders, that’s golden-fried Oaxacan cheese served with tomatillo salsa. Dishes rotate." - Caroline Shin