5 Rabanitos Mexican debuts in Hyde Park | Eater Chicago

"Ten years after Alfonso Sotelo shook up Chicago’s Mexican restaurant scene by opening a Pilsen spot, the chef brings his passion and expertise to Hyde Park, a neighborhood Sotelo says has never "seen something quite like this." Since opening in late February, the new restaurant has been drawing crowds; on some nights the kitchen sells out completely, forcing Sotelo to close early. "I am happy that the food sells out," he says. "But it is never easy to turn customers away." The restaurant's name — “five little radishes” — nods to Sotelo’s childhood in the farmlands of Guerrero, where he and his four siblings sold radishes in the market. The menu, informed by his Topolobampo and Xoco alum background, is a thoughtful assortment of tacos, tortas, and regional Mexican dishes that includes a generous selection of vegetarian options. Standout dishes described include the puerco al rancho, a nod to Guerrero — slow-roasted pork bathed in a red and smoky mole sauce; the torta ahogada (drowned torta), Sotelo’s version stuffed with carnitas and dipped in a chile de árbol broth; two Hyde Park exclusives — a crispy, beer-battered fish taco and a fried chicken taco, each finished with a chipotle aioli — and a chile relleno with shrimp: a roasted, egg-battered poblano stuffed with gooey, melted cheese in a light, mildly spicy sauce, served alongside shrimp marinated in serrano chile and cilantro (meant to be piled onto warm, freshly made tortillas). Inside, a mural by Mena Arte’s Mario Mena wraps the corner spot in color, depicting Sotelo’s parents, a jaguar representing Guerrero, a hummingbird bridging the living with their ancestors, and a map of Mexico honoring the traditions that shape his cooking. The eatery offers alcoholic and non-alcoholic drinks from horchata to wine and margaritas; a patio will open in warmer months, street parking is available and there is a parking structure within walking distance. For now, the Hyde Park location isn’t taking reservations. Call ahead." - Brenda Storch