"One of the original fish taco stands in southern California opened in 1998 by co-founders Lourdes Toscano and Martin Vásquez, featuring a highly-guarded, secret tempura batter for Ensenada-style fish and shrimp tacos. Toscano, now the sole owner, runs three busy locations alongside her daughters on the strength of the taquería’s golden, crispy fish and shrimp tacos, cooled by pico de gallo, crema, and cabbage. Don’t forget to grab the flavorful chiles güeros dressed with lime and chile powder, and for a taste of the restaurant’s Sonoran roots, order the weekend-only caguamanta, served as stingray soup, stingray tacos, and vichis, an umami-rich stock." - Bill Esparza