"Smokehouse Brisket Sandwich at Arby’s: It was with some excitement that I peddled toward the new Arby’s just south of the Port Authority, after reading a couple of years ago about the deleterious impact the sandwich chain was having on the nation’s brisket supply. Well, the sandwich turned out to be horrible in all sorts of unpredictable ways. First off, the brisket looked and tasted more like bacon than beef. But the meat flavor was obscured by a thick slice of gooey smoked gouda and clouds of mayo. There was barbecue sauce, too, and some onions that tasted like they were shaken from a can. I feel a little queasy now remembering it." - Robert Sietsema