"Spoon by H is quietly cooking some of the best Korean food in LA despite having to shut down indoor seating and only rely on takeout and delivery. What’s available depends on what owner and chef Yoonjin Hwang prepares by the week, but earlier this year she made a spicy beef noodle soup featuring whole beef ribs and a hefty broth that very much resembled khao soi. Though this soup didn’t have any of the curry or coconut undertones of khao soi, the marrow-infused broth did its job of capturing the same rich essence of the northern Thai dish. Instead of Thai spice, the bowl featured the gentle heat of gochujang and a hint of sweetness that the thick hand-cut noodles easily mopped up. My personal all-time favorite Korean dish is yookgaejang, and this hand-cut spicy beef soup is probably the finest modern version I’ve ever had. —Matthew Kang" - Eater Staff
