Tacos Los Palomos

How Indigenous Taqueros From Oaxaca Made LA the Capital for CDMX-Style Al Pastor | Eater LA

"I find Fermin Martinez’s Tacos Los Palomos delivers some of the city’s best Mexico City–style al pastor: the trompos are carved beautifully (tapering toward the base) to produce moist, adobo-marinated pork that crisps and chars with a light sweetness, and the al pastor is served in tacos, tortas, mulitas, and alambres. The stand also serves solid tacos de fritanga — suadero, buche, tripas and other cuts fried in a large aluminum pan — and manages to keep moisture and deep pork flavor despite the tiny two-bite tortillas common at LA taquerías. Martinez opened about a decade ago in South Central, named his restaurants after a flock of doves near his first stand, and his workers hail from Sierra Mixe (Tamazulapam del Espíritu Santo/Quatro Palos); during the pandemic many of these essential workers were ineligible for stimulus, locations were reduced (from seven to six), and vendors have faced police harassment and restrictions, yet Los Palomos remains busy and enforces masks and distancing — locations change weekly, so check Instagram to confirm where they’ll be serving." - Bill Esparza