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"I found that, despite moving into a bigger space, what's unchanged at Morena’s Kitchen is the soulfulness of Miriam Montes de Oca’s food. The star dish is the pica pollo—"crackly chunks of citrus-marinated fried chicken" that can drive a person into "paroxysms of bone-gnawing pleasure," and it's wise to order extra to go (though you may not be able to resist snacking on a piece on the ride home). Other highlights include sancocho stew teeming with tender beef, root veggies, and dumplings that "warms to a dose of explosive habanero sauce," and shrimp and peppers in a garlic sauce served with a mound of mofongo." - Jeffy Mai