"The periodic pop-up Chain in Virgil Village, founded by Otium chef Tim Hollingsworth and actor-comedian B.J. Novak to pay homage to some of America’s most iconic fast-food brands, prompted Tejal Rao to reflect on its deliberate artifice — a “different kind of illusion: a restaurant that isn’t really a restaurant, selling fast food that isn’t really fast food” — and on the surreal effect it had on her as a critic." - Cathy Chaplin