

48

"I visited Loreto for the first time this week and during dinner began plotting my sophomore return. Loreto is, confoundingly, both understated and glamorous; the environment feels casual enough to sidle to the bar for a quick margarita and tostada but still romantic enough for date night when you feel like dressing up. The menu highlights, for me, include a bright scallop tostada dotted with bursts of passion fruit and kumquat; a seafood soup brimming with octopus and shrimp and topped with a square of flaky puff pastry from sister-bakery and Eater Award–winner Santa Canela ; and butterflied whole branzino alongside quesadillas, black beans, avocado, habanero-kissed onions, rice, and vibrant salsas. Desserts by pastry chef Ellen Ramos should also not be skipped, especially the carajillo-inspired chocolate cake topped with a spherical scoop of earthy pecan ice cream." - Eater Staff