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"Reopened as Jai Sang Ma 2.0 after Lamoon flipped to Jai Sang Ma in 2022, I entered through a still-shuttered bright yellow storefront, crossed over a step bridge, and found a late-night Thai bar plastered with 1980s childhood souvenirs — a cassette tape exhibit, tiny square analog TVs playing old talk shows, and a colorful wall of candy tin boxes. The 13-item menu comprises drinking foods like grilled flank steak strips for dipping into spicy tamarind or green seafood sauces, and also includes sliced pork tongue and a snappy, fried sausage; owner Jugkrwut "Jay" Borin, who’s also behind Mao Mao in Bushwick, plans to open with noodle soup lunch service and tasting-menu dinners in the coming months." - Emma Orlow