"Prince range: $$ Taiwanese comfort food near you might not mean much to some, but, for those on the take, this is like hearing a Prince concert is on at the dive bar down the street. That’s no exaggeration. Chef Chris Yang and partner Marcelle Gonzales Yang’s cooking has been a gold mine for the city’s diners since their Hén-zhì and El Chino Grande pop-up days. When the restaurant opened in 2023, it became a fast favorite, nabbing national accolades. The move here is the nostalgic and inventive honey walnut shrimp and pork toast, ground white shrimp and pork mousse atop the Japanese milk bread shokupan. The mala barbecue pork ribs are numbing and delectable, and wrapping the meal with the singular tofu pudding, or dou hua, is just plain smart. (The strawberry rhubarb version is a particular highlight.) The restaurant added alcohol at long last to the menu in spring 2025, which means the night market vibes are all the more powerful. Best for: Taking in the inevitable Bruce Lee movie projected on the wall with a few friends while going dish by dish through the inexpensive and punchy menu." - Paolo Bicchieri