The 38 Essential Restaurants Around D.C.

"At this Malaysian restaurant in Columbia Heights, chef James Wozniuk navigates a balance of pungent, spicy-sweet, and funky umami flavors that vary in intensity but never veer out of control. Wozniuk’s condiments — sambal made from bird’s eye chiles, palm sugar, tamarind, and fried anchovies; appetite-piquing pickled limes with prune and golden raisin; and peanut-based satay sauce — assert themselves in an array of rice and noodle dishes. The bar mixes complex tropical cocktails, like a blackstrap rum and pineapple Jungle Bird, that vie for attention. Order takeout or delivery online. Tables are available in a breezy dining room or on a patio. Wozniuk also runs Spicebird, a Southeast Asian takeout out of Makan featuring savory spice-rubbed roast chicken and sides. Head to underground sibling Thirsty Crow for a tasty bar bites menu." - Tierney Plumb, Eater Staff