"A huge departure from the existing ramen styles in Southern California, Torisoba Sumiya goes into the former Yakitori-ya space in Sawtelle Japantown serving a unique blackened chicken-tinted broth. Cooks utilize the existing grill that was previously for yakitori, shaking pieces of seasoned chicken in a wire basket over charcoal. The resulting smoky, charred flavor becomes a prominent part of the all-chicken broth. Wirey green onions, crunchy radish circles, seaweed laver, and a hard-boiled egg provide contrasting bites, while scratchmade alkaline noodles reside under the toppings. This is easily one of the best new ramen bowls in Los Angeles." - Matthew Kang