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"The new pastry chef, Clodagh Manning — from Ireland by way of London’s now-closed Lyle’s — is turning out astonishing desserts; during a recent visit I tried both and was floored, especially by the monte bianco ($16 to $18), where the nuttiness of chestnut mousse and a pronounced citrus dovetail into a beautiful contrast of textures. I can’t wait to try her work when the bakery wine bar opens next door in the new year." - Patty Diez