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"Originally launched in February as a no-fee members’ club, this Fitzrovia restaurant will open to the public from 17 August under a new identity. The dining room is fitted with an elite Berlin Martion sound system, and the kitchen has shifted from a strictly traditional Eastern Mediterranean approach to a more playful, contemporary one: staples such as tabbouleh, hummus, taramasalata, borani, tzatziki and tahdig remain on the menu but now play supporting roles to showpiece plates like carabineiro prawn, a ‘‘dairy cow’’ preparation and an Iberico pork schnitzel. Chef John Javier says that gaining confidence in the fundamentals has allowed him to experiment more freely—often seasoning dishes subtly with ingredients such as shiro dashi or yuzu kosho—while still aiming for a result that would feel authentic to his Middle Eastern collaborators and their grandparents." - James Hansen