"Plenty of restaurateurs claim to farm and forage, but the Gladwin brothers actually do, bringing almost everything they use here from their Sussex fields. The cooking is more thoughtful than Rabbit’s jolly-japes vibe might suggest: witness the mushroom-marmite eclair with confit yolk, and the cured chalk stream trout with beetroot, horseradish and buttermilk cream and puffed wild rice. There’s a great weekday set lunch — two courses for £14.50, three for £19 — and an absurdly well-priced Saturday brunch. Swerve the ‘loosener’ served in a welly; stick to a build-your-own Bloody Mary and the oak-smoked pink fir hash with coriander yoghurt, pickled shallots and a fried egg." - Emma Hughes