"A new act unfolds inside the Ridgewood corner spot that once accommodated the Irishman film set and the eclectic former restaurant Porcelain. Il Gigante is a classic Italian trattoria with house-made pasta and a solid wine list. It’s the product of several restaurant veterans with experience from Il Brigante at the South Street Seaport, Aromi in Carroll Gardens, and Malaparte in the West Village, between them, from Bologna and Prato originally. The salsiccia e fagioli is a warming stew of thyme-heavy beans topped with a fat, snappy sausage and a nice rustic bread. In the pecorina salad, a very bitter radicchio gets balanced with pecorino cream and bright, sweet orange slices. The lasagna is a comforting mass of green pasta, béchamel sauce, and beef ragu. And for extra springy bucatini, get the cacio e pepe." - Caroline Shin