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"Fresh off a six-week renovation, this Valencia Street stalwart returns with a ’60s Italian retro‑modern look—red marble, twisted‑wire light fixtures, sleek molded chairs, black‑and‑gold abstract murals, and a warm gold exterior—while keeping the strong cocktails and pizza that made it a hit since opening in 2008. The bar program resurrects Thad Vogler–era favorites like the Acadian (rye, sloe gin, absinthe, honey, lemon) and Dolores Park Swizzle (white rum, absinthe, lime, maraschino), joined by beverage director Caterina Mirabelli’s newer options such as the pretty pink Dust Till Dawn (mezcal, prickly pear, calamansi, ginger) and spicy Mojave Road Trip (vodka, pineapple, ancho verde, basil). Chef Fredy Lopez pivots the kitchen back to bar snacks worth sitting down for—stuzzichini and antipasti including caponatina agrodolce, zucchini scapece, carpaccio di polpo, and fritto misto—alongside Roman‑esque, thin‑and‑crispy pies with seasonal toppings (including a new white pie with stracchino, mortadella, and pistachios). Recent additions of pasta continue with agnolotti pinched around roast chicken and marsala mushrooms and an inky linguine nere tossed with prawns and ’nduja, and the kitchen still leans into its comforting risotti rich with beef ossobuco and porcini. Hours scale back from the 2 a.m. heyday, but it remains open seven days a week (Mon–Thu 5–10 p.m.; Fri 5–11:30 p.m.; Sat 11 a.m.–11:30 p.m.; Sun 11 a.m.–10 p.m.), and as Adriano Paganini puts it, “it’s just a version that’s being polished up… going back to what made [it] special to start with.”" - Becky Duffett