"Now, I recognize that a lot of things need to go wrong for a toro- and caviar-laced piece of toast to taste terrible, but that still doesn’t make the mastery behind this shokupan at Akikos any less impressive. First off, the base of this bite, the milk bread, was toasted to my ideal crisp-to-fluffy-softness ratio, meaning each bite gave a satisfying crunch before giving way to a pillowy bread interior. The layer of toro, meanwhile, was laid atop the bread, giving the toast a wonderful sushi flavor and texture that melts as you eat it. The flavor was there, yet restrained enough to respect the presence of the generous cylinder of caviar on top, which provided nice bursts of saline and umami. The gold leaf doesn’t add much, flavor-wise, but it adds a nice bit of visual flair against the round, black spheres of caviar. I had to force myself to not eat it too quickly in order to savor each part of the toast, and I mostly succeeded — although now I’m still thinking about it days later. Akikos omakase ($150) is a fairly pricy lunch, but at the same time, it reminds me of one of my favorite movie quotes: “It is so choice. If you have the means, I highly recommend picking one up.” Akikos, 430 Folsom Street, San Francisco." - Lauren Saria
