This Oakland Dive Bar Used to Be an Italian Restaurant. Because of COVID-19, It’s Serving Meatballs Once Again. | Eater SF

"For more than 100 years this grungy Oakland dive has leaned into its rough reputation — complete with the tagline “Poisoning Oakland Since 1916” and a large trough that many mistake for a urinal but that was actually a spittoon — and is known for stiff, unfussy cocktails, loud music, and a generally rowdy atmosphere. Owner JJ Jenkins recalls that the bar was a restaurant in the 1950s and 60s called “Merchant’s Lunch” (and appears in a 1969 Oakland phone directory listing as Merchant’s Restaurant at 401 2nd Street, owned by Lorenzo Gregori), and Jenkins says the booth area used to be a small kitchen likely serving simple red-sauce pasta and meatballs. The pandemic forced months of closure and a series of pivots — from merch and retail liquor sales to selling grocery and pantry items — but in August the bar was able to reopen for outdoor drinking by partnering with Italian Colors to sell food; now Merchant’s serves pasta and meatballs (penne with marinara for $6, a couple of big meatballs for $8) along with non-Italian items like gumbo and a jerk chicken leg over rice, seven days a week. Hours are now shorter (Mon–Thu 1–8 p.m.; Fri–Sun 1–10 p.m.) compared with its old 7 a.m.–2 a.m. schedule, staff has been a major concern (16 people), and Jenkins says it’s “all about survival right now,” with revenue still down to about 40 percent of pre-pandemic levels despite the reopening." - Luke Tsai