

4

"Aiming for timeless grandeur but hampered by an inhibited, vibeless dining room and perfunctory service, this hotel restaurant still yields occasional flashes of inspired cooking from the chef-director: highlights include a resonant chicken oyster consommé and a lavishly filled chicken-and-ham pie crowned by outstanding pastry, yet other plates — like arid tempura mushrooms and an overly wet, aggressively sweet chocolate pudding — underline a generally unsmiling, disappointing experience that may not justify a repeat visit." - George Reynolds