"A riverside restaurant at one of London’s theatrical institutions is never going to frighten the horses, so don’t come expecting culinary drama. But the Swan’s food is better than it has a right to be for having both views and the need to cater to an audience’s whims, with its 2010s restaurant tropes (burrata; crudo; hispi cabbage; racks of lamb) reliably well-executed." - James Hansen, Daisy Meager