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"After his Santa Ana sushi restaurant was forced to close by the COVID-19 pandemic, owner Gino Choi used the downtime to reinvent an intimate 10-seat omakase-only space, redesigning the layout with plexiglass partitions and a large acrylic bar cover (the latter ordered from a manufacturer in New York) and sourcing materials from multiple Home Depot locations. The restaurant offers a meticulously assembled succession of 22 dishes — including fat-marbled otoro and other signature plates — for about $150, with fish sourced daily (which had made takeout impractical prior to reopening). To reassure guests he implemented temperature checks, sanitization between seatings of the bar, glass dividers and chairs, and staff use of masks, gloves and plastic face shields; these precautions helped reservations sell out quickly when Orange County allowed restaurants to reopen. Diners who returned praised the great food, the intimate omakase experience and the safety measures (one party celebrated a birthday and felt safe dining with the restaurant to themselves), though some patrons remain cautious about dining out. Choi says he is doing everything he can to make the environment comfortable and sustainable for his business." - Cynthia Rebolledo