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"Set in a massive hilltop building frequented by motorcyclists, Hickory’s brisket came crumbly and old on my visit while a freshly smoked turkey thigh was glistening but rubbery, yet the pulled pork verged on wonderful — pleasantly moist with an underlying smoky flavor and only a modest squirt of sauce — and the garlic mashed potatoes and cornbread were unexpected hits in this barnlike spot west of Kingston at the gateway to the Upper Catskills." - Robert Sietsema