"Pastry superstars Belinda Leong and Michel Suas continue to dominate both California Street — where the duo operates B. Patisserie, b. on the Go, and full-service restaurant Routier — and the San Francisco pastry scene, with a new outpost in Union Square. There’s no shortage of excellent bakers in this city, but Leong’s impossibly buttery and flakey kougin amann are truly iconic. On a first visit, it’s hard to stray from the classic iteration, but when the seasons change, it’s an excellent idea to explore the fruit variations. Must-try dish: If it’s close to Chinese New Year, look for B. Patisserie’s coveted black sesame kouign amann, which is only available for two weeks or so." - Paolo Bicchieri