"Smack bang amid Duke of York Square, one half-expects dazed shoppers to bounce off Vardo’s glass walls like so many exceedingly coiffed pigeons. And yet, inside this purpose-built pavilion, all is serene. An evolution of the Caravan concept, much of the menu will be familiar to the mothership’s regulars, but within these surrounds, even long-standing Caravan classics such as seasoned rice with hot-smoked salmon, miso mayonnaise, pickled ginger, furikake — taste that little bit better. Soft boiled eggs, garam masala labneh, fenugreek-chilli butter, and toasted chickpeas on grilled flatbread are a Vardo-only standout." - Suze Olbrich, Daisy Meager
