"As well as being the smallest shop on the list, B.J’s on Barking Road bucks the trend by controversially serving chips as an alternative to traditional mash. Past the communal bench seating, food is served by friendly staff from a counter at the back of the shop (also unusual): pies are crowned with desirably well-done crusts, mash is creamy and the liquor is generously seasoned." - Jonathan Hatchman