"The chef at Atlas Kitchen, Kaiyuan Li, was born and raised in Hunan, and his easy familiarity with the cuisine, and enthusiasm for getting creative with it is not surprising. While the menu at this elegant restaurant aimed at Columbia University students and faculty traipses all over China’s many regions, including nods to Guangdong and Shanghai, the origin of dishes like steamed fish head with chiles, and braised chicken wings, feet, and gizzards in vinegar sauce, are unmistakable. Among the chef’s inventions, don’t miss “pork scoop” — a bouncy orb of fried pork saturated with sweet-and-sour sauce." - Robert Sietsema
Alex Staniloff/Eater NY
