"Starting out in the back of a jewelry store on Mott Street around 1989, this shop used a lighter, crustier baguette and offered half a dozen variations when most places had only one or two; when it moved around the corner to Grand Street in 2010 it also became a bakery and expanded the sandwich list to 13. The place is very proud of its barbecued pork — coarsely minced shoulder coated with a sweet red sauce — which makes a very striking sandwich (my second favorite); years ago it also included a slice of cha lua, but now the barbecued pork stands alone, piled into the sandwich while still warm." - Robert Sietsema