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"The latest iteration of Dave Beran’s Santa Monica French bistro may be his best one yet. After a brief closure in mid-2025, the Main Street restaurant reopened with a decidedly more laid-back a la carte menu featuring steak frites, the popular cheese-laden bar burger, and French onion souplettes that have as much cheese as broth. Where French cooking can often be constrained by tradition, Beran breaks out of the mold within deboned chicken cordon bleu wings, stuffed with ham and cheese and served with a buffalo beurre blanc. A simple roast chicken, dotted with olives and flanked by charred lemon, may be the unexpected menu standout right now—the simplicity works in its favor, with just the right cook on the bird and a deep, acidic flavor from the caramelized lemon accoutrement. Always end with the duck fat sundae, a dessert that will enrapture even those who say they don’t need a post-dinner sweet treat." - Eater Staff