Machan Kitchen, Sri Lankan Restaurant & Cocktail Bar, Croydon

Sri Lankan Lamprais’ History in a Banana Leaf Parcel at Machan Kitchen | Eater London

"Run by chef Ratnayaka, who was born in Kandy and trained in UK professional kitchens, this East Croydon spot focuses on South Sri Lankan specialties and an intricately assembled lamprais. The lamprais is smoked in a banana leaf, filled with a core of short-grain, turmeric-yellow rice (steamed with ghee tempered with whole spices, pandan and lemongrass rather than meat broth), then baked in foil so all the flavours infuse. It is served with prawn and aubergine condiments, a spicy fish cutlet (a croquette-like fried ball of tuna, potato and spices), dried prawn balchan, double-cooked turmeric-coated egg, brinjal moju, dry-toasted cashews, fried ash plantain and a robust mixed meat accompaniment — notably a “black” pork curry darkened by toasted spices and abundant black pepper and finished with lime. The overall profile is layered umami, tangy, sweet and spicy; the chef also offers adaptations such as vegan versions that replace ghee and seafood/meat with jackfruit or breadfruit curries and seeni sambol." - Ashanti Omkar