"Opened in Portland in 2007 by the author after a nontraditional path from home cook to professional, this chef‑owned restaurant became a busy, acclaimed spot. In retrospect the owner describes running the kitchen with a hard‑ass, bro‑like mentality—yelling, sometimes throwing things, and demanding long, 70‑plus‑hour workweeks for low pay—while participating in the same partying culture as male peers; early‑morning market runs and stops at strip clubs were part of that rhythm. The author now views those practices with sadness and criticizes the expectation that staff sacrifice family time and tolerate sexualized, macho behavior to get ahead." - Naomi Pomeroy