"Hunan cuisine makes much of smoked, dried, and pickled ingredients, and this wonderful stir fry ($17.95) emphasizes the smoky part of the equation. The pork belly has been extensively treated by this method, making it taste more like Carolina barbecue than American breakfast bacon; while the bamboo shoots also taste smoky, but in a creamier way, as if the smoking of dairy products were a phenomenon. Pickled red and fresh green chiles add a level of heat rarely found in American barbecue." - Robert Sietsema
