
5
"Tucked into Union Square at 88 Hardie Place, I found Hed, a new restaurant where owner Naruephon “Billie” Wannajaro aims to “make” traditional khao gaeng-style meals so diners can try two or three dishes centered around rice; Billie says this approach gives a truer sense of her Isaan cooking. The menu ranges widely — from local Isaan items like papaya salad, chicken satay, crispy pork belly, and fresh mango pudding to Northern Thai dishes such as stewed wagyu curry noodles and seasonal pickled vegetables, plus stir-fries and grilled duck — and Billie stresses a strong direction to reflect Thai eating culture rather than serve only generic Thai food. She expects people will learn about her culture and aims for recognition; Thai iced tea is the must-order drink, while beer and wine will arrive later once permits clear. Billie and her investor, who already run three restaurants in Thailand (including an American brunch spot), opened Hed after a year of research around New York and Texas and picking San Francisco as a starting point; Hed is open daily from 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m., with dinner service beginning in February." - Paolo Bicchieri