"Don’t show up to this dinner-only Roman pizzeria between 8 and 10:30 p.m., or else be prepared to queue. Start with a few fritti and a plate of beans, followed by thin-crust pizza tonda, made in a wood-burning oven and sparsely topped. Surly servers dole out the consistently satisfying, simple pizzas like margherita and marinara, and there’s outdoor seating in the summer, a necessity considering the heat of the indoor pizza oven." - Katie Parla