"Who can resist the white slice at Astoria Hot Pizza, with its masses of ricotta and mozzarella on an un-tomatoed crust, like driven snow after a blizzard. The chicken slice is another favorite: a diced cutlet, tasting fresh from the fryer, scattered across what would otherwise be a regular cheese slice. It’s like a deconstructed chicken cutlet parm hero. This place shares space with a Middle Eastern grocery store, which allows an unusual latitude in the selection of beverages." - Robert Sietsema